Salem Singh Haveli
It is at an unhurried pace that the havelis (houses of rich
merchants) should be seen and admired. These havelis are the
pride of Jaisalmer architecture, a part of the national heritage.
Salem Singh haveli, at the eastern end of the city, is an
Arabian Nights structure, which, like a wild flower, blossoms
at the top.
Patwon ki Haveli
Near the city center is the Patwon ki Haveli, built by Guman
Chand Patwa and his five sons, dealers in brocade, gold and
silver embroidery with business stretching between Afghanistan
and China. The five suites built between 1800 and 1860 are
virtually the showpiece of Jaisalmer's legendary architectural
wealth. The carving on stone far surpasses in beauty the work
on brocade and gold. The balconies are so delicately chiseled
you would stand mesmerized by the splendor of it all, particularly
when viewed early in the morning or in late afternoon. Oblique
sunrays create enchanting and dramatic shadows, highlighting
the carving and infusing a new life of its own. It is the
grandest mansion in Jaisalmer, a veritable museum piece in
the open.
Nathmal Haveli
The third haveli belongs to Nathmal, a later day prime minister
who gifted it to the Rawal and was allowed to retain it. Built
by two brothers in 1885, this haveli has two identical looking
portions, which are in fact two different parts united by
a common façade. Look for the projected balconies wh9ch
seem to emerge from books of poetry. So ethereal, so charming.
The carving never looked better. A perfect example of jeweler's
art applied to stone carving. The Muslim silavats (artisans)
did a wonderful job here and left a marvelous legacy of craftsmanship
excellent in detail and flawless in conception. If only for
viewing these havelis travel to Jaisalmer is more than amply
rewarded.
Lodurva
Lodurva, the ancient capital of Bhattis is 16 kilometers from
Jaisalmer. Mostly in ruins, it is visited for the great Jain
temple, which contains the most exquisite jail work screens,
grand ceiling and a magnificent triumphal arch at the entrance.
The original carriage for the deity, made in 1675, is still
preserved. The most interesting object dart is Kalpataru,
a mythical tree of wish fulfillment. Lodurva has a great number
of peacocks, which hover around the temple walls lending spectacular
color to the dry and stony landscape. Here once flowed the
river Kak. Along its banks had flourished the romance between
princess Momal, and prince Mathendru of Amarkot. Their tragic
end is the theme of folk songs. When the lovers perished,
the river Kak stopped flowing.
Amar Sagar
From Lodurva, the road to Jaisalmer passes through Amar Sagar,
which has a grand artificial reservoir for water, a temple
and a promenade on the bank. Bada Bagh, cenotaphs of the Jaishalmer
Rawals, has some magnificent chattris (canopies) set amidst
an oasis of greenery. The elegant chattris are in white marble
and mostly in the fabulous yellow sandstone. A great place
for a stopover and photography. Another beautiful place is
the Gadi Sagar Tank, the main source of the city's water supply.
Early morning on the tank is charming with the temples resounding
with chanting of mantras and prayers. The main gateway was
built by a courtesan, Telon, who installed a Krishna image
atop the arched gateway to ward off royal ire at having had
to pass under a construction financed by her.
Kuldhara Village
One of the most interesting places is Kuldhara village. This
is among the 84 villages inhabited by the rich, hard-working
Paliwals. The Paliwals deserted their houses overnight with
the curse that anyone who removed even a stone from the houses
would come to grief and perish. Howling winds rush through
empty streets and skeletons of houses now exposed to the elements
remains of the village.
Sand Dunes
The most picturesque dunes are located some 40 km from Jaisalmer.
No travel to Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to these
fascinating dunes. Wind-caressed slopes are marked with ripples
creating an enchanting mirage, a visual illusion of extraordinary
splendor. The dunes can be extremely treacherous since they
can sink to a few feet the moment you step over one. Occasionally
you can see the dunes shifting with the strong desert winds-an
astonishing feat of nature. Watching sunrise and sunset on
the dunes can become etched on your memory-such an unforgettable
spectacle with the great ball of light rising from behind
the low hills of sand amid a perfectly still scene. A mysterious
silence prevails. |